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Are you wondering if vaccinating your puppy or kitten is neccessary?World Small Animal Veterinary Association – WSAVA – Vaccine Guideline 1
World Small Animal Veterinary Association – WSAVA – Vaccine Guideline 1.
This is a report of the current state of infectious diseases in the world that affect our pets. A group of world experts, veterinarians and owners combined forces to come out with a report that all can understand. Many of the diseases discussed have high death rates and are expensive to treat and a vaccine is available to prevent the disease. Look for your self and make up your own mind. Remember that local areas also have unique diseases that are important to their area but are not world wide problems. For example all of Wisconsin is in an emerging epidemic of diseases that are carried by ticks, both the deertick and the common brown dog tick. These diseases are a specialized type of bacteria that lives inside of cells in the individuals body, often the immune cells. WI is seeing and increased number of infection in people, pets and wildlife. They are called 1. Lymes disease 2. Erlichiosis 3. Rocky mountain spotted fever 4. Anaplasmosis. Ask your veterinarian about the frequency of infections in your area.
How effective are food’s as anti-oxidants.
At the present time we rely on measurements developed to compare how well foods or suppliments block the adverse effects of free radicals. This measure is called ORAC.
Follow these links for more explanation and an excellent list of foods with their ORAC numbers.
Kennel training: Why do dogs or puppies bark and cry when left alone…and What to do!
In this article I will answer three questions;
1. Why do puppies or dogs fuss all night or cry themselves to sleep when left in a kennel or other confined area?
2. What to do about the crying puppy in the kennel? or Why does the Kennel not work for my puppy.
3. What not to do.
Unless taught puppies/dogs do not know that the kennel is a safe place for sleeping or resting “quietly”. Like children, puppies go through a period of crying, whining, barking when first left alone for bedtime (when old enough to become aware of being left). Older dogs who have not been gradually taught how to be alone (either in a kennel or home), do not acquired the ability to “self-calm”. They can develop anxiety symptoms that worsen as the time spent alone gets longer and more frequent, like when new owners return to work. Other symptoms of anxiety such as urination, defecation, cage chewing, house damage, broken teeth and worse can happen. Kennel training young puppies gets them ready to feel safe when left alone.
Let me explain further. …
Puppy are born with an unfinished nervous system that continues to develop and grow rapidly through in the first year of life. At birth, Pups do not have the nervous system areas that regulate the “ability to calm down”. Puppies and children have to learn the skill “to calm oneself down”. This happens when the puppy’s is stimulated by short periods on being left alone, that are gradually increased. When challenged by tolerable levels of frustration the brain & nervous system will learn new capacities. Frustration, with trial & error, activates growth of nerve cells that can be used by the puppy to calm itself, called “self soothing”. It is important for survival that this is not present at birth because pups are not able to survive with body heat from either mother or other pups for very long so their cries when left alone the first 3 weeks are important. It is later that the pups must develop the skill of waiting, that is an essential part of day-to-day life.
When puppies are not stimulated by appropriate short absences from mother and owners, the behavior problem called Abandonment Anxiety can develop. I refer to tolerating alone time as a skill, because it is learned and not present in puppies or children or other mammals from birth. It arises as a learned phenomenon if the environment prompts the growing brain that this ability to be needed. The ability to self-calm is thought to be stored in the nerve cell’s DNA, but does not emerge until stimulated by circumstances, as with many capacities that are developed over a life time through learning. Then the areas of the brain involved in emotions will start to produce the chemicals necessary for calming, plus stimulate growth of nerves & connections which increase the speed and ease of using the “ability to calm down”.
Human caretakers can, with the best of intentions, interfere with this necessary process. Let me go into getter detail of how this happens. For the brain to be stimulated to grow a new capacity, the puppy must go through a period of distress and frustration where the old method (crying out for mother or others) does not work. Before the brain will seek a change, the puppy will go through cycles of increasing frequency and intensity of the behavior that used to work. Fancy name is an extinction burst. A short episode of intense, extreme behavior that is the last attempt before the behavior ends. The behavioral display will ramp up to a high peak before the animal can stop. Only if they fail will seeking a new solution take place. We, animal lovers & owners, especially when first home with our adorable and helpless puppy, feel the urgent need to rescue when we hears their cry’s. We ar, in fact, hard-wired, to respond urgently to the sound of a crying baby, any baby. In earlier life, this reaction by us or mother is a life saving behavior, that puppies must be able to evoke so mother knows when to come to them. As the pup get older the mother naturally learns that every cry is no longer urgent and begins to ignore her demanding maturing brood. When the crying or fussy behavior does not work, the pup will cry, whine and bark faster, higher & higher pitched and more intensely, sometimes to the point of frantic before it stops. Because it is an instinct driven behavior, it has more brain capacity dedicated to it so it is stronger and more practiced, compared to the newer behavior that must emerge for pups to handle the unpredictability of life. “Calming down” in order to sleep or “learning to wait” are some of the early lessons in internal self-control necessary for a successful life. If these lessons are interrupted or missed, the dog can have a higher risk of developing all kinds of anxiety behaviors.
What to expect in young puppies when first left alone (night or daytime while owners go to work), they will cry for 5 – 15 minutes and then fall asleep. Even though the calm before sleeps is short and came from being worn out the brain chemicals are still released. With a few repetitions, their body will have noticed the calming sensations before the sleep part of the cycle. The puppy physically feels better to be calm compared to how fussing feels. The fussing part of each session get shorter and shorter and then stops, as the more pleasant feeling of calmly waiting and falling to sleep takes the place of fussing. In young puppies 6 to 8 weeks of age this takes about a week. Some pups learn this after 1 or 2 times (lucky owners) and others take 2 weeks or longer.
The first day home with your puppy, introduce them to the kennel with a toys or food given inside the kennel several times (12-20) throughout that first day. Stay with them, leave the kennel door open episode last about 1 3 minutes . Repeat this until pup is happy to stay in and enter kennel on her own. Next add short periods with the door shut, 3- 5 seconds at first, then work up to a minute, 5 minutes, etc. I set up in the living room where I spend the day, a play pen big enough for the kennel and a large area outside it to play. see website “www.dogstardaily.com” for photo of setup. Play with the puppy in the pen. Leave the puppy in the pen, you are still in sight. Leave the room for short periods throughout the day. Your new pup will play intensely for 10 -15 minutes and then rest/nap for 30 -60 minutes. Leave the room during nap times. As the day goes on the puppy will go in/out of the kennel freely. I feed in the kennel also. All serve to teach the puppy that the kennel is their personal room that is fun to be in. This gets puppy ready for the night.
What not to do.
1. Bring the puppy home at end of the day so no time is left for training.
2. Letting the puppy out when crying, fussing happens, once it is bedtime/kennel time. Expect this fussing to happen the first few nights if your puppy is normal. Especially important to ignore when the pups engages in an extinction burst (frantic crying and fussing). Remember the puppy is trying to get you to come, if you do, the behavior will continue because it worked. It is OK to spend sometime playing with puppy in the kennel prior to shutting the door. I keep untrained pups in their kennel in my bedroom, so they can see me and wear ear plugs for the first 2 weeks.
3. Puppies less than 12 weeks of age can’t go 8 hours between voiding. Set you alarm for 6 hours and if pup is awake I take them out. If not awake leave them. Alternate way to house train is to use a doggie litter tray with sod or artificial turf, kept in the kennel or play pen, so accidents have a place to happen. The remainder of the floor should be smooth, not absorptive which dogs prefer to use to urinate.
What happens when adults have not acquired this skill. They tend to add other stress reducing behaviors (chew on legs, feet, tails, breaking teeth on the cage bars, running in tight circles, non-stop licking) with each aroused state as time goes on. Each adult is their own combination of behaviors. But studies have observed dogs that progress beyond normal puppy distress into abnormal anxiety states tend to continue to get worse until they are in a continuous state of arousal. These dogs are treatable with the help of a skilled behaviorist and in some causes the addition of anti-anxiety medications during the re-learning period.
Why Microchip your Pet or Horse?
I have been blessed with the addition of a puppy, Leo. I had a microchip put in under his skin at the same time he was neutered as part of the first year of puppy care. I chose the company Petlink for their one time fee, $42.00, for life-time coverage. The identity library of information is available online, 24 hours a day, seven days a week worldwide for the life of the animal. This is also a worldwide company, which is handy for anyone who travels outside the US with their pets or any animals.
The competitor company uses a microchip placed in the same manner but has a yearly fee to keep the data in an available library for retrieval. Est. $35.00. Most Veterinarians carry the yearly fee company because the company gives them the startup supplies for free. Petlink, has a start-up cost for equipment to the Veterinarian, & costs are made back as microchips are registered. The Petlink site has lists by State, of Veterinarians who carry the Petlink microchips.
www.petlink.net/us/owner/vetList.spring
Check out this link to find out how many lost pets are never returned home and the importance of microchips.
Why use a microchip for your pet or horse?
I have been blessed with a puppy “Leo” and as part of his basic puppy care I had a microchip put under his skin when he was being neutered. Painless, universal, worldwide identification, available 24 hours, seven days a week. I choose The Petlink company because a one time fee $42.00, pays for the identification library service for the life of your animal. The other microchip companies typically charge a yearly fee ($35.00) to keep the information on your pet. Many Veterinarians carry the yearly fee Company because this company gives the supplies to the Vet Office for free. The Petlink has a charge to the Vet. for the reader and implants which are refunded to the Vet as they implant the microchips. The website for Petlink has a list of Vet.s by Country and State that have their microchips available. http://www.petlink.net/us/owner/vetList.spring
The link below has a photo of the chips and info on the millions of lost pets who never make it home.
More indepth information on factors that cause high numbers of pets in Humane Societies or rescues.
This is a complex issue that have been a problem since humans began keeping animals for pets and not just for food or the work they can do. This is an excellent overview of the history of the pet over population problem and current information on the state of the problem. Both causes and solutions are discussed.
Nice check list of DYI over the counter medication for your pets.
Please read all of the instructions before giving any medications.
If your pet has health problems, is on other medications of supplements, or is less than 4 months of age or elderly contact your Veterinarian for safety and dosage information. Dose is often greatly different under these circumstances.
I always like to give to give credit to the authors of this useful info, it is the Walker Valley Vet: link is http://www.walkervalleyvet.com/otc-meds.htm
Vet Report Gives Tips for Avoiding Salmonella Infections
Vet Report Gives Tips for Avoiding Salmonella Infections. See my personal story below.
Check out this article regarding the safety of dog treats. In general more warnings are happening every week. The production of rawhide, pig ear and hoof based dog treats has gone to China. Many Merchants of dog treats are buying their supplies from Co. located in China. So as with other products coming from a Country that does not have the safety standards we are used to, problems will happen. The FDA is in charge but does not routinely inspect food until after a complaint is made.
I recommend that my clients buy large beef leg bones from a butcher and place in water, bring it to a boil then lower the heat to a simmer. Simmer (continuous small bubbles around the edge of the water where it touches the pan) for 20 minutes. Even softened your dog will get hours of chewing fun. It takes 20 minutes at the temperature that water bubbles (boiling point) to kill the toxins that Salmonella or E. coli produce.
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Let me compare food poisoning from these bugs v.s more common forms. The “Run of the mill” food poisoning causes diarrhea and some vomiting in 12 to 24 hours after consumed and last a day or two most individuals recover without treatment if they can drink water. The the toxin producing bacteria (bugs) can cause shock, collapse and death before the diarrhea has the time to get from the upper colon to the outside.
My cat is a survivor of a toxin producing food borne bacteria. She ate less than a tablespoon of tainted canned cat food that had been left out for 6 hours. I found her in the early morning hidden in a closet, unresponsive, collapsed, stiff, with no pulse but she had a weak heartbeat. I rushed her to a University Veterinary Emergency Department. Four trained EM personnel could not hit a vein to give her an IV so a surgical cut-down to place an catheter in a vein was done, to give her life saving fluids. She was revived by the fluids and treatments for shock, after 6 hours. The next day, her liver and kidneys started to fail because of the effects of the toxins which can cause massive cell damage in vital organs. More sophisticated, life saving, procedures were done over the next week in ICU and she survived. In fact, She was the first animal I had seen in over 12 years that had as bad a case of food poisoning that had survived. All of the Veterinarians and Vet. tech.s shared with how rare it was in their experience, to have an animal survive this type of poisoning. Maybe it was her luck that day, and certainly I recognized the urgency of her situation as did the EM people and we all moved very fast. No time was spent deciding if we should treat each complication. I gave the emergency veterinarians, full authority to do all and every life saving method, knowing that having to call me to get permission would delay important treatments and time makes a major difference. She went on to live a long life with me.
I had the benefit of small cost savings because I was on staff at the same hospital. Even though, money was no limit for me at that time. In today’s dollars, her care would cost approximately $2000 to $4000.00 and the odds of survival are still very low. So I just want to say from my experience spend the time and extra care to make sure pets food and treats are safe.
best regards
Dr Smith
How to make a balanced pet food for dogs and cats
There is an excellent website called “www.balanceit.com” run by the American Association of Veterinary Nutritionists. Available to owners and veterinarians.
You type in a protein and the carbohydrate of your choice, such as Turkey and rice, then some info about your pet. The website will run formulas automatically and come up with a balanced recipe for homemade diets. This is so useful for owners who can not or do not want to feed commercially made diets.
The chapter for the veterinarian requires log in with a current license number. The same information can be used to calculate a custom diet for the many different medical problems that require a special diet. Ask your vet to try this site next time your overweight allergic dog needs a special diet and make it yourself at home.